Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
