🔗 Share this article Each Cook Ought to Study Here’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Ranks 4th on List of London’s Top Restaurants. Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled high among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London. A Surprise Accolade The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the family totally shocked. “I’m totally surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list. The Charm of Simplicity This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner. A Star Creation: Tantuni In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture. The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside. It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony. Other Than the Classic Tantuni There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”. For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste. Outranking the Stars Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations. While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price. The Ethos of Heart It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner. “In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.” This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”. A Story of Hard Work Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son. A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work. “My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says. An Achievement for the Community This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.